Poonhill

It was a total of 60 hours that I pondered over this. Sitting in hot springs at Tatopani, lazing around for 2 days, getting drunk on Chang, I cooked up all the excuses possible for not going to Poonhill. You can do Annapurna circuit in 2 ways at the end. Either you go to Beni from Tatopani, a dry, hot walk on a dry, hot road or you can go to Poonhill and then to Nayapul. The excuses included but were not limited to:

1. Its very touristy - have heard from someone there are over 400 people watching the sunrise even in off season.

2. Already on a trek of 15 days, I have seen enough sights and views. What more will a conventional viewpoint add to it.

The reason for the excuses: Tatopani - 1170 meters. Poonhill - 3200 meters. Nayapul - 1070 meters. So, climb 2000 meters and descend 2200 meters in 2 days. It is difficult to do that after the last 15 days.

Anyway, something, I dont know what, motivated me to do it. I am so glad I did it. The circuit would never have been complete without doing it. A 180 degree view of the himalayas, starting with Dhaulagiri (8167) on the left, Annapurna I (8091), Annapurna South (7XXX), Macchapucchre (6XXX) and many more. Clouds were below us, the mountains above. It was totally worth every meter climbed and descended. I think the images speak for themselves.

More of the other side

I will confess it did start seeming like a trudge at some point, so much so that I even wanted to have a post titled 'Trek or Trudge?' The unforgiving road, the really hot sun, long days of walking on the hard road. There was a time on the day I walked from Muktinath to Jomsom that it felt like a Spaghetti Western. One person, only one person in a vast expanse of a desert, no settlement for ages, no water in sight except the dirty river. Then, a small settlement with huts. I almost felt like Robert Redford or Clint Eastwood. :)

It went on like that but with a little more crowd for a couple more days. And then things changed. Like they always do. Kali Gandaki remembered that it was a mountain river. The mountains remembered that it was not illegal to have trees on them. There were wheat fields and a whole lot of early spring flowers. Life was back

The other side

I have often noticed the 2 sides of a mountain pass are different. Sometimes, they are quite different and sometimes, they are just different enough to be different. There are differences in geology, vegetation, geography.
I started from the east of Thurung La Pass and crossed over to the west. It is a different world on the other side. Pardon me, its actually a different planet.

The east is about a deep V shaped river valley, starting with tropical vegetation and then large expanses of blue pine and spruce jungles before it gets too high for any vegetation. There are wheat fields, some flowers and then there is the quintessential mountain river, the Marshyangdi.

 

The western side.....is a cold desert, a la Lahaul and Spiti. A cold desert at above 3000 meters. Do I need to say there is no vegetation? None at all, whatsoever. There are mounds and mounds of brown earth, heaped in various ways. This whole is surrounded by the really high Himalayas. Then there is the river, Kali Gandaki. A look at it and you could believe this is a river in its dying stages, about to estuarize. Its a very very very wide valley, runs for miles together. In a sense, its a high plateau, a very high plateau indeed. The river seems to have forgot that its a mountain river.

The other big difference is the road. The road comes right upto Muktinath. Ok, its not a great road but a road it is. I mentioned in one of the earlier posts about the trek dying. You bet, I was right. People take jeeps from Muktinath, like Peter did. I was wrong however about tourism dying. Road brings different kinds of visitors. Those who cannot cross the pass, those who do not want to cross the pass, those who think they cannot cross the pass and the came saw conquered type. Yes, those who huddle together in a jeep one fine morning, drive 4 hours into the cold desert, get the driver to stop in the middle of a valley, take out point and shoots.

Click left

Click right

Back into the jeep. Oh sorry, I forgot the center. Get back out, click center, get back in and go home. To there people, Shalabh says "Guys, dont waste so much money and time for doing this. Send me an email at shalabh.w@gmail.com, I will send you the photos, all free of cost with all the rights."

Crossing the pass

First of all, thanks to all who are reading and commenting, makes the effort more worthwhile. If you really like it, make more people read it, that will make it even more worthwhile. :)

Its been 6 days since I last blogged. So much has happened since then. Lets do this in chronological order.

The moment I finished my last post, I met Peter, a Dutch guy trekking the same trail. When I said 'Easy name to remember', he replied ' Easy going person too'. By jove, he was right. Something clicked and we trekked for the next 5 days together. Our similar trekking pace and Snickers lunch philosophy helped.

From Chame, where I blogged from last, the walk to Lower Pisang and then on to Manang were pieces of cake. At Manang, the vegetation was almost non existent and it had snowed very recently. Cold winds in the afternoon made life really difficult. At Manang, both me and Peter felt good and fresh, skipped the recommended acclimatization and saved it for later. Letdar, 4200 meters, the stop after Manang was so cold that the water bottle next to my bed froze completely. I had a slight light feeling in the head due to altitude. Next morning, we left for High Camp. In some ways, I was not sure if I wanted to sleep that high.

High Camp was where I realized how much of a mental thing high altitude trekking is. Every step, you fight your doubts, you conquer them. The moment you start losing the battle, your body stops responding. I was always skeptical about High Camp and that brought about a wave of Acute Mountain Sickness. Only the name is horrible, it was just a little headache, loss of appetite because of the brain getting little oxygen at height. Now, this is normal, it happens to everyone, even those who acclimatize. Since I was not sure in the first place, I felt really down. There was a time I even considered climbing down but decided against it because once you go down, you never usually make it back up.

I slept the night with a Diamox and a Paracetamol and 2 hot water bottles. Something changed in the night, I dont know what. Probably the doubtful part of my mind was conquered by the more optimistic one. I felt fresh as ever and the walk to a 5416 meters pass seemed like a cakewalk. Just 2 hours in -20 degrees and lots of snow and ice instead of the estimated 3.5 hours. 5416 is the highest I have ever been and it is really and exhilarating feeling to have managed this, more so after having a bout of doubts. The climb down was like a run. I did not even notice the 1600 meter climb down in the adrenaline rush of passing the summit.

Oh and I forgot to mention, myself and Peter crossed the pass on just 1 snickers and 500 ml water between the 2 of us. Not for nothing do they say, 'Its all in the mind'.

Doubts aside, the pass had some fantastic views of the Annapurna range. I a short on time and internet is again as expensive. Am pasting some photos, not sure how good are they because I have myself not seen them on large screen. I am sure when you are live blogging from such a place, this is excusable. More later.

First Impressions

I finished the 4th day of walking today. Time for first impressions. These will be short (I am paying 300 NR per hour for the internet).

1. Stunning views - but of course. In the highest of Himalayas and the highest of mountains on the earth, this had to happen. There are snow capped peaks, beautiful villages, interesting clouds.

2. The River - should have been part of views but deserves a special mention. Have been walking along Marshyangdi River for the last 4 days. It is angry, furious, fast and everything else a mountain river can be. There have been some scary suspension bridge crossings.

3. Commercializtion - When I see Swiss Rosti, Hash Browns, Mushroom Pizza on the menus of these small tea houses here, I know something is wrong. Heavily commercialized trail.

4. Road - noise of pneumatic drilling from the road that is to reach Manang in a few months. On the other side, it has already reached Jomsom. When the road is completed, this trek will be a 3 day trek. That, in one word makes me sad.

5. Local people - have seen nothing of them. No one is willing to talk. I am just a tourist for them. Feed him well, earn off him. Thats where it ends. I might be naive but I like my mountains with small, untouched villages where you get a genuine smile from people, lots of incredulous looks and lots and lots of questions.

I am at Chame right now and it is very cold here. Snow all around. I should reach Manang in 2 days. Have heard contradictory news regarding the state of Thurung La. Some say its open, I have seen others returning. We will cross the bridge when it comes.

The fun begins

It has started. I landed in Kathmandu yesterday. A prelude to the trip was visible from the flight. Went straight to Thamel, the tourist neighbourhood. Expensive!! Very expensive! Needed a couple of passport size photos. Only option to get 8 for NR 250 (INR 185, USD 3.5). Internet at NR 100 per hour.

Himalayas from Jet Airways Flight 9W 262 on 10th Feb 2010. Very average shot but better than nothing.


Checked into Kathmandu Guest House, recommended by Gary (the guy courtesy whose facebook update I am here). Changed INR to NR, went for dinner. Large Jack Daniels with coke and a chicken starter, Nepali non veg thali for dinner, sweet dish and masala tea to complete. Wonderful and perfect dinner except the price tag.

The elite Nepali Non Veg Thali. Chutney, Spinach, mixed veg, dal, mutton, papad (Clockwise from left) and rice in the center.


The internet connection is too slow for me to write too much and the keys on the keyboard worse. In short, I got the trekking permit pretty quickly and cheaply today. 3 minutes and 200 NR vs 1 day and 2000 NR for Gary. Indian passport also helps in some places. :)

Lodging was so expensive, I did not see any point in staying. At 11, I got into a constricted 'Micro Bus' (actually a van which accomodates 18 instead of its capacity of 10). 5.5 hours later and 300 NR poorer, I have reached Besishahar a day earlier than I thought I would. Met some really nice locals on the bus, got some tips on getting around cheaper. They say I look Nepali with my short hair and I learnt some basic words. Not sure if that was the reason but today internet is NR 35 per hour and room rent NR 250 per night.

Here I come Gary!

What is this called?

Yesterday started as a normal day. I swear to god it did. I woke up slightly later than usual. It was raining outside. I had been feeling slightly restless for the last 4-5 days. The usual stuff, feeling a little confused and not sure, doubts about whether I am doing the right thing and so on. I am sure everyone passes through this phase. I knew I needed to get out but the climes were not really supportive. I saw a facebook update from a friend about him leaving for the Annapurna Circuit Trek in Nepal.

I was watching India getting bashed by South Africa in a test match when I suddenly remembered I could make better use of my time by meeting someone in Dharamshala. It was a nice meeting, was glad to know that there are people who are doing such good work. You can see www.himalayanexplorers.co.in for details. I was also glad because I may have just ended up fixing some treks for the summer.

At 4:30 PM, I was back home to see India getting even more bashed by South Africa. The friend whom I had asked about the trek said it could done in this season as well. At 6 PM yesterday, out of the blue, without any prompts, I decided I am leaving immediately for Nepal. No bus tickets in hand, no flight tickets, no reservations in Nepal, no clue about the trek, no maps, no information.

As I write this, I am sitting at a friend's house in Delhi after a 13 hour bus journey, having failed to get a flight today and having booked one for tomorrow. Tomorrow, I leave for Kathmandu, day after I get my permits for the trek, day after that, I leave for a 28 day trek without any clue.

I hear the trek is pretty commercialized, so internet would be available at points on the trail. So, more about this 4 week wild, unplanned journey to follow.

Sometimes, at times like these, I myself wonder. Am I mad? Am I crazy? Am I out of my senses? What am I? Then sometimes I think, maybe this is me.

An Appeal

This is a sudden and unexpected post. I am excited, excited beyond belief. It rained in the night and I got up today morning to see lots of snow on the mountains. Then it cleared up and I was disappointed. Then it went dark again and I have cheered up again. It is snowing up there. This is an appeal to the weather gods.
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A HUMBLE APPEAL TO THE WEATHER GODS AT PALAMPUR, HP, INDIA

For once, please, for once, let it rip in the mountains. Let all the pent up snow fall there. I am sick of seeing false starts. I am sick of seeing dying bamboo forests and almost dying deodar forests. I am sick of the general lack of water in streams. I am sick of seeing the bare grey of the rocks. I am sick of seeing midget wheat plants. I am sick of everything the world's progress has brought upon the mountains and their ecosystems.

We are not improving in a hurry. We will do thousands Copenhagens. Developed nations will not do anything because they are developed. Developing will not do anything because they are developing. Underdeveloped wont do anything because they cant. All is not lost thought. For every one ignorant human (like I was a few months ago), there is atleast one who is aware (like I am now).

Dont ignore this appeal. For once, I want to see the forests at their lushest green. For once, I want to see the flowers bloom with all the colours. For once, I want to see the streams full of water. For once, I want to see the Dhauladhars all white again. For once, I want to live life like I could have 50 years ago. Please, please, please!!

If it stays like this for the next 3 days and 3 nights, I may, just may............................................. start believing that you exist.

Good Books

I have recently finished reading 2 books and I liked both of them for different reasons. The first one is 'Blood of the Isles' by a scientist, Bryan Sykes. It is, if I can call it that, the genetic history of the British Isles. Using DNA samples collected from people of all backgrounds, from all areas in the isles and isolating male and female DNA, the book attempts to construct the history of the UK, its settlements, addresses the myths of the Picts, the Celts and the Vikings. DNA from the Cheddar Man's tooth, from other fossils around Scotland, Ireland and from thousands of living people. The reason I liked this book were:

1. Unlike other books on history or science, Sykes does not claim, implicitly or explicitly his text to be definitive. He admits that this is his way of 'interpreting' whatever he has and he could be wrong.

2. Instead of using statistics to interpret, which we are so used to seeing in scientific studies, he leads the reader with stories, legendary and true.

3. Most of all, he also recommends the best place for having ice cream in Wales and I love it when people love their food irrespective of what other pursuit they are engaged in. :)

The book reminds you that History, much like current affairs (read news) these days, is supposed to be read, not necessarily believed in entirity.


The other book is by one of the greatest travellers of all times, Travels in the land of Kublai Khan by Marco Polo. The same Marco Polo, who at one point inspired great explorers like Columbus and continues to serve as an inspritation to generations after generations of travellers and explorers. Inspite of all its alleged christianity bias (which is actually true), the book is worth a read. What amazes me the tolerance of a man so far back in the past towards a land so new and so different to him. What open mindedness more than 700 years ago! What observation!

There is an elaborate description of Kublai Khan's court, his palaces, his hunting parties, civil administration, running of a welfare state, efficient postal system, penal code, dinner table. There is all of it. The one thing that got my attention the most was the postal system, which according to Polo was designed such that news from land 100 days of journey away, would reach the Great Khan in 10 days. This means that world has always been ruled by people who get their information the fastest. Only the means have changed from horse posts to telegraph to the internet. Hack the mass media of those times and you were Kublai Khan, hack the mass media of today and you get Orwell's Nineteen Eighty Four and the Big Brother (Boss).